Studies show that optimal sunscreen use only prevents up to half the damage which produces photoaging.
Antioxidants may be used in conjunction with sunscreens to increase photoprotection.
Antioxidants are substances that act as scavengers of oxygen-free radicals, which are the unstable particles in the skin that can damage skin cells and cause aging.
Naturally occurring antioxidants in the skin are reduced when exposed to light (particularly, ultraviolet light) and due to other environmental and lifestyle factors (most notably pollution, including smoking) and must be replaced.
Antioxidants are best administered both systemically (from diet and supplements) and topically (in products).
The majority of topical antioxidants are applied underneath sunscreen in the morning.
Some antioxidants may also be applied as moisturizers, or underneath moisturizers, in the evening after the application of retinoids or alpha-hydroxy acids.
Topical antioxidants must remain stable up to the point of application and be able to be absorbed by skin.
No one antioxidant is best — combination antioxidant products and some usage rotation are preferred.
UV
Exposure to UV rays is the number one cause of photoaging and other skin damage such as skin cancer. Protecting the skin from UV light is essential to the prevention of photoaging and skin cancers. See UVA and UVB below.
UVA
UVA rays make up 95% of UV radiation that reaches the earth. Unlike UVB rays, UVA rays are present in abundant amounts year round and can penetrate through clouds and glass. The visible damaging effects of UVA only appear after years of sun exposure. Early stages of incremental skin deterioration aren't visible to the naked untrained eye, so typically skin appearance and healthy funtion will deteriorate without meaningful intervention. In recent years, the harmfulness of UVA has been more precisely demonstrated at cellular and molecular levels, causing the impairment of cell functions and tissue denaturation. discolouration, including hyperpigmentation.
UVA has an ability to penetrate deep into the dermal layers to attack the molecules of the skin's matrix, resulting in premature and permanent aging of the skin, outwardly visible as:
- fine lines;
- wrinkles;
- loss of elasticity;
Prescription: Ideal protection is not offered by sunscreens alone.
- Sunscreens with a comprehensive shielding effect against UVA, both for facial and body use;
- Primary antioxidants, once daily;
- Treatment without interruption over the long term.
Increasing evidence of the detrimental effects of ultraviolet A (UVA) impinging on the skin has emphasized the need for a new generation of skin care products that not only protect from UVB-induced sunburn, but rather provide effective protection throughout the UV range of sun radiation.
UVB
UVB rays make up approximately 5% of UV radiation that reaches the earth and can penetrate the epidermis to cause visible burning. UVB's potential to permanently damage skin may be mitigated in certain circumstances by cloud coverage, seasonality, or minimising time spent outdoors.
